Another LED lighting query
Apr. 17th, 2016 11:10 amI've now sorted the lights in most of my flat and replaced the CFLs with LEDs. At some point I will probably be dumping way too many CFLs onto Freecycle... but I digress.
The exception is my work room, which currently has a 4ft 36w fluorescent tube. I'd like to replace that, it's on for several hours most days, but it isn't as simple as the bulbs because the fluorescent fitting has a high-voltage starter, and CFLs don't need that. As I understand it there are two ways to do this - one is to rewire the fitting to bypass the ballast and starter, the other is to replace the fitting entirely and put up one designed for CFL from the outset. Fortunately the fitting can be taken down fairly easily - it hangs on chains a foot or so below the ceiling and can be unplugged - so either wouldn't be especially difficult.
Anyone done any of this, and have any information about the pros and cons? In particular, what's the service life of these things - will the cost of replacements outweigh the energy savings?
The exception is my work room, which currently has a 4ft 36w fluorescent tube. I'd like to replace that, it's on for several hours most days, but it isn't as simple as the bulbs because the fluorescent fitting has a high-voltage starter, and CFLs don't need that. As I understand it there are two ways to do this - one is to rewire the fitting to bypass the ballast and starter, the other is to replace the fitting entirely and put up one designed for CFL from the outset. Fortunately the fitting can be taken down fairly easily - it hangs on chains a foot or so below the ceiling and can be unplugged - so either wouldn't be especially difficult.
Anyone done any of this, and have any information about the pros and cons? In particular, what's the service life of these things - will the cost of replacements outweigh the energy savings?
no subject
Date: 2016-04-17 11:35 am (UTC)I've fitted electronic ballasts into a couple of older fluorescent tube battens -- it stops them flickering when they are switched on and substantially extends the life of the tube. Effectively it turns them into a not-very-compact CFL and is a bit easier (but not much easier) than replacing the whole batten. It does involve chopping wires and removing bits though.
Replacing a fluorescent tube unit with LEDs won't save you much on electricity. The big energy savings moving from filament bulbs to CFL aren't matched by the slightly lower consumption of LEDs with a similar light output.
100W tungsten = 20W CFL = 15W LED (roughly).
What might be better is to install some LED lighting in the work room to cover the areas you need good coverage (desk, worktop etc.) and leave the ceiling unit alone.
no subject
Date: 2016-04-17 03:19 pm (UTC)I was wondering about the overall economics. I've replaced the CFLs with LEDs in most of the flat because there were some cheap ones in Poundland, the tube is obviously a different ballgame.
no subject
Date: 2016-04-17 04:01 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2016-04-18 02:39 am (UTC)no subject
Date: 2016-04-18 09:19 am (UTC)As for the mercury in CFLs requiring hazmat and evacuation if they break that's an urban myth. The quantity of mercury vapour in a CFL is tiny. If one breaks in a room open a window for a few minutes and then clean up the glass. You will get more exposure to mercury in biologically hazardous form by eating a few cans of tuna.
no subject
Date: 2016-04-18 01:47 pm (UTC)no subject
Date: 2016-04-18 01:55 pm (UTC)http://www.snopes.com/medical/toxins/cfl.asp
There was some worry about breakages in the early days of CFLs but it was vastly overblown. Considering the numbers of regular fluorescent tubes around and the likelihood of them breaking and releasing larger amounts of mercury vapour it's a little surprising that CFLs induced such panic. I presume because they were a new design -- most homes have at least one or two fluorescent tube fittings in garages and workshops. I even have a ring-shaped fluorescent tube in a stand-mounted magnifier.